Edit ArticleHow to Clean Split Air Conditioners These days almost every household needs some form of air conditioning, often the split ductless air conditioner. This system is so compact, so energy efficient, and so low cost that most new homes are now pre-installed with it. However, these devices are small, so cleaning them can be a daunting task. What's more, having them cleaning professionally can be ridiculously costly, costing as much annually as 25%~35% of the cost of a new system. Hence, here is a set of DIY instructions for anyone who wants to clean their air conditioning units and get back the strong cool airflow of a brand new air conditioner. Be sure to read the warnings at the bottom first to avoid electrocution, and in my opinion it is essential to remove the front cover and clean inside it to avoid mould reinfecting what you have cleaned! Buy an aircon wash bag. Buy a good coil cleaner. Avoid the foam type coil cleaners because they can be messy and spread foam everywhere.

Foam sprays also may not penetrate the coils or rotor fan blades properly. So stick to liquid solution sprays. Beware of buying harsh chemical cleaners that are designed to attack organics, as they may damage newer air conditioners. Newer split air conditioners often come with their cooling coils coated with a blue-colored hydrophilic layer (which keeps the condensation flowing over the coils easily to improve airflow strength). Install the aircon wash bag around the split a/c unit (called an FCU-Fan Coil Unit) on the wall. Start spraying the chemical solution over the coils. Spray the rotary blades hidden in the outlet of the airflow. Wait for 10 to 20 minutes for the cleaning solution to work. Wipe down the fan coil unit. Be gentle and try not to exert too much pressure when brushing the cooling fins. They do bend and collapse easily under too much force. To avoid or clear a drainpipe clog, spray some coil cleaning solution into the drainpipe. Then flush water down the drainpipe.

If you can reach the other end, use a wet shop vac to suck out and clear the drainpipe. This should be done especially if you have a leaking air conditioner. Use the long reach nozzle or a toothbrush to push the rotary blades round to get at all the blades. If you know how to remove the front casing of the air conditioner, you can clean the coils more thoroughly. If your sprayer is strong enough, the pressure alone will cause the blades to rotate, as long as you focus the spray on the lower third of the rotor facing you. Before you begin, you can remove the drain plug from the drip tray in your aircon unit to allow all the dirt to drain into the wash bag instead. This can avoid letting too much dirt flow into the drainpipe. A used toothbrush can be very useful in dislodging and scrubbing some of the stubborn spots on the coils and everywhere else, especially areas near the airflow outlet. Avoid spraying any solution on the right side near the electronics.

Lots of coil cleaners recommend leaving their chemical solution on the coils and letting the condensation clean and flush it away. dryer vent cleaning articlesHowever, rinsing it yourself is preferable, because the flushing action allows you to remove the tons of trapped dirt. air duct cleaning diyAlso, leaving cleaning chemicals on the coils gives rise to VOCs (Volatile Organic Chemicals), which are usually not healthy for our respiratory system even if they are organically natural products. quick way to clean wooden venetian blindsLong term exposure to such concentrations of cleaning chemicals is not advisable.best upright vacuum cleaner pet hair

Turn off the mains power supply breakers that control the air conditioner unit, including the compressor, before you start this cleaning process.leather cleaner auto expressInstall a Radiant Heating Systemhvac duct cleaning maryland View Costs in Your Area Install a Heat Pump Install an A/C Unit Install a Swamp Cooler Install Ducts & Vents Install an Electric Baseboard or Wall Heater Install or Repair Gas Pipes Repair a Radiant Heating System Repair a Heat Pump Clean Ducts & Vents Repair an A/C Unit Repair an Electric Baseboard or Wall Heater Repair a Swamp Cooler Some service providers may recommend repairs and maintenance tasks that are not needed. A savvy consumer who has researched how an HVAC system works and is familiar with most common maintenance tasks will quickly know the difference between necessary tasks and add-on services that drain the wallet.

If a heating or cooling problem occurs, appliance service manuals typically contain troubleshooting tips and other information that may be helpful in identifying or even resolving the problem without calling a repairman. Online HVAC guides may also be helpful to a consumer who wishes to become more familiar with how an HVAC system works and potential signs of disrepair. One of the easiest maintenance tasks consumers can do themselves is maintaining the filters. Air filters should be inspected and cleaned once a month. This allows for regular monitoring to eventually determine when the filter needs to be replaced. Most filters can be changed every three months if no other problems exist. Maintaining clean and regularly changed filters will not only produce better air quality, but appliances will function more efficiently, which can save on heating and cooling costs. An air conditioner that does not seem to effectively cool a room may be hindered by a dirty evaporator coil. Simply removing the front panel of the unit, locating the coil and gently cleaning the coil with a dry cloth or small brush may remedy the issue.

It is important to ensure that the coil is dry before proceeding. The condenser fan is another important HVAC element that must be maintained. Condenser fans that contain oil ports should be lubricated at least annually. The outside condenser should also be shielded from direct sunlight if possible. Keeping vegetation at least two feet away from outdoor HVAC units will also promote higher performance and potentially lower energy bills due to higher efficiency. The further away vegetation is, the better an HVAC unit will operate. Routine maintenance involves replacing or cleaning the filters if so equipped, and keeping the outside air intake free of debris. After years of service the air exchanger will become crusted with grease and dirt that collects during condensation. Removing this accumulation will probably take solvents or degreasers and require opening up the cabinet and compartments. The coil is usually made of copper tubing with aluminum fins, but some manufacturers use aluminum tubing.

Its purpose is to transfer heat as rapidly as possible. Pressure inside the coil can exceed 400 psi. during extremely warm weather conditions. The cleaner it is kept, the better it transfers heat. Rinsing with a garden hose occasionally when the unit is not running will help keep it operating efficiently. After many years of use it may be necessary to put special chemicals on to clean it. The condenser fan moves air across the coil to increase the transfer of heat. It is critical to the system. Obstructing the flow of air will not only reduce efficiency, but can lead to compressor failure. Keep debris and objects away from the coil and fan to allow maximum air flow. Some condenser fan motors have sealed bearings, others need lubrication. Damage to the fan can occur if removed improperly. Have a qualified serviceman handle the lubricating if needed. Furnace mounted units can be by-pass, steam, mist, wick and powered. Some mount in the ductwork while others are attached to the plenums on the furnace.

Whatever the model, mineral deposits from the water will reduce the effectiveness of the humidifier. Be sure to turn the water and humidistat off before servicing. Special chemicals can be used to clean mineral deposits, but one of the safest is vinegar. A 50% mixture of vinegar and water will usually dissolve or help clean away deposits. If the humidifier has a drum with a belt, replacement of the belt at the beginning of the heating season can be the easiest fix if the water has a high mineral content. If the humidifier has screens or is the wick type, some corrosion can occur as well as build up Heat pumps and electric furnaces usually have steam humidifiers to increase output. They are line voltage powered and must be unplugged or disconnected before servicing to avoid injury. With the exception of some mist type humidifiers, all have a reservoir. Stagnant water sitting in the reservoir during the off season can be a breeding ground for bacteria. Turn the water off and clean the humidifier if possible when heating season has ended.

Other than mineral deposits, the most common problem is sediment in the water supply. The float inlet valve has a tiny hole that easily clogs. The float is usually made of plastic, and if cracked will fill with water and sink. The valve will be stuck open and the reservoir will overflow. Use caution when scraping deposits off the float. If the deposits cannot be removed, replace the float or it will sink and cause an overflow. Not obvious is the fact that they need maintenance routinely, just like any other machine. The filter, usually located behind the front grill, needs to be washed. The condenser coil at the back of the unit can accumulate a lot of debris, and might require a special chemical bath. All air conditioning systems, large or small, need good air flow across the evaporator coil and the condenser coil. Efficiency and performance drop rapidly as air flow decreases. Lose enough air flow and the unit will burn out. Rodents can nest inside when not in use, and can foul up the unit in many ways.