We get scrubbing to find out what effect a variety of teak cleaners have on the woodwork of a Sigma 38 moored on the River Itchen Teak decks have many advantages: they feel nice underfoot, have good non-slip properties and enhance the look of a boat. But keeping them clean, mould-, mildew- and slime-free can be a There are many touted remedies. Some people use a stiff brush and seawater to scrub them down – but this isn’t recommended, according to experts. They say that this raises the grain and wears away the teak, which can expose screw heads and lead to early failure and replacement of the teak. Others recommend pressure-washing the teak – but again, this can cause major damage to the wood and should be avoided. You can read more on how to preserve your decks in ‘The Truth About Teak Decks‘ Chandlers’ shelves groan under the weight of teak cleaners, brighteners and treatments. To see how they perform, we collected together a range of products, from one-stage cleaners to two-stage cleaners and brighteners and biocidal treatments, and had a go at the teak infill panels in the cockpit of a Sigma 38 moored on the River Itchen.

After a winter’s exposure and near a scrap metal yard, this teak was green and slippery, with slimy mould and lots of dirt turning it a green-grey – all in all, a good test for the products. We used each one on two planks, applying it according to the instructions, before rinsing off with fresh water. best dark hardwood floor cleanerOnce dry, we could examine the results…lightweight vacuum cleaners best review Teak cleaners on testbest leather cleaner for recliner IntroductionBoatLife Teak Cleaner PowderOwatrol Net-Trol Wood Cleaner and Colour RestorerStarbrite Teak Brightener 16ozPRICE: £11.47 (500ml)Wessex Teak Cleaner & RenovatorPage 6StarBrite Sea Safe Teak BrightenerPage 8Page 930% bleach solutionBoracol 5rh/10YPBO Verdictbest hardwood floor cleaner mop

You are hereHome Wood and Supplies Finishes and Finishing Get the Color Out With Wood Bleach After bleaching, the oak and walnut are the same color. The grain remains visible in both pieces. When it comes to altering the color of wood, woodworkers routinely turn to stains to give wood more-or a slightly different-color. what is best leather car seat cleaner protectorBut wood bleach lets you remove color from wood.best multi surface vacuum cleaner reviews You'll find three kinds of products marketed as wood bleaches. But only one will remove the natural color from wood: a two-part wood bleach of sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) and hydrogen peroxide. Other wood bleaches are chlorine bleach and oxalic acid. Chlorine bleach, which is like ordinary laundry bleach, will remove dye color from wood, but not the wood's natural color.

Oxalic acid is commonly employed to bleach out water or rust stains. Teak stain remover sold by boat dealers is often based on oxalic acid. All the bleaching chemicals pose health and safety hazards to varying degrees. So be sure to read the manufacturer's instructions and warnings before use. And always wear rubber gloves and eye protection around bleaches. Now, Kiss That Color Goodbye The Wood-Kote brand bleach we tried comes, like most, in two bottles. To use it, mix equal parts of the two liquids in a glass or plastic container. Never put either chemical into a metal vessel. (Some bleaches call for applying the two parts separately. Follow the instructions for the one you're using.) Work fast after missing the two chemicals. The solution begins to neutralize and lose bleaching power just as soon as you start to pour the liquids together. Once mixed, a chemical reaction begins, wherein the hydrogen peroxide, an oxidizer, acts to neutralize the caustic sodium hydroxide.

Neutralized, the solution loses its bleaching power, so mix only what you can use immediately. Quickly apply the solution to the wood. A sponge makes a good applicator. Keep the surface uniformly wet to minimize streaking. (We held the board at an angle and worked from the bottom up.) Apply the bleach as evenly as possible, and keep the surface wet as you work. Rinse the solution off the wood with water. To ensure that no caustic soda remains behind, rinse the wood with a mild acid-white vinegar works well-then rinse it once more with water. After the wood dries, assess the color. You can bleach wood as many times as needed to achieve the color you want. (We bleached the pale piece of red oak in the top photo, and made three applications to the walnut sample.) Allow the wood to dry thoroughly. Sand with 320- or 400-grit sandpaper, just enough to remove the fuzzy grain from the surface. When the wood you have is too dark for a particular project. In this case, removing some of the color from the wood might make it more suitable, or would allow you to stain the wood to a lighter color.

When you have several boards of the same wood for one project and they vary in color. In this case, you can bleach one or more of the boards to match the others. Or, you might bleach all the boards and stain them to a consistent color. When you want to stain one wood to look like another. Removing the natural color from a wood makes matching the color of another wood easier. If you bleach both woods, you can stain them both the same color. Finishes and Finishing or Finishes and Finishing These easy-to-make shop aids really simplify edge-gluing boards. The clamp blocks... read more I accidentally spilled cooking oil all over my floor(tiles). I tried washing my floor with water and then wiping it with dry cloth but it gets even worse. How can I effectively clean up the cooking oil spill? First, you should cover the cooking oil in either kitty litter (I've found this works best, but you may not always have it) or baking soda. After waiting about 15 minutes, you can use paper towels to pick up and throw out the kitty litter/baking soda.

Next, you can use a piece of bread to wipe up any oil that is left. A sponge also works here. Lastly, mop the floor with dish soap and warm water. You may need to repeat some of the steps more than once for the best result. Did you find this question interesting? Sign up for our newsletter and get our top new questions delivered to your inbox (). You could use coconut husk to absorb all cooking oil. If not available, you could also use ordinary paper for the same. Thus you could later use this wasted oil at least for igniting something.Most probably, in the case if you have a wood burner.Try to clean your tile with these, not leaving even a drop of oil behind. Next, I would prefer dish washing liquid to do a final touch to your area. Take some dish washing liquid and apply it onto the area affected, with a scrubber.Wait for some time.This is used to absorb the oil left overs if any.At last, with a wet cloth, wipe out the area. And make the floor dry with a ceiling fan.

I'm not 100% sure whether you're asking how to remove any staining from the oil, or whether to restore the floor to something you can walk across without slipping and sliding everywhere because its oily. And when you say 'tiles', it's not clear whether you mean ceramic tiles, or terracotta or other material. If the tiles are glazed ceramic, then you may have some residual staining in the grout between them - that will be next to impossible to remove without scraping out existing grout and redoing it. If the tiles are unglazed, or unsealed, then you won't get the stain out of those either. If, though, the problem is slipperiness, then washing the floor with a strong cleaner such as Flash, then rinsing/mopping with hot water afterwards, twice, should stop that. You could try to put talc (aka talcum aka baby powder) on the stain and let it sink in before polishing it away. This only works with recent stains. Wash with a sponge or sponge mop lightly dampened with dishwashing liquid (some brands are specially marked as "grease cutting" or "removes grease"; these are the best for this), then dry with either a dry sponge, towel, or paper towel.

It's the detergent action that will remove the oil from the tile. First I use kitchen paper or useless piece of cloth (old towel, t-shirt) to absorb the oil as much as possible. After that I clean the floor with sponge and dish washing liquid or liquid soap and warm water. And finally use kitchen paper again to wipe dry. Cheaper and most used approach: Take all the excess oil from the floor to a vessel using a paper-napkin or spoon. Spread flour (available in each kitchen) on the oily part. Rub the flour on the oily parts (it will even go through tiny lanes if any on the floor) till the floor gets dry. Collect the flour using vacuum cleaner and use soap and sponge to clean the floor. If you have an oily floor, open a bag of corn starch and apply liberally to the affected area. (Cover the area in corn starch) . Wait 10-15 minutes and then sweep up the corn starch. After wiping most of the oil that you can trap with paper towels, use some kitchen wipes until all oil is off.