We used 33 products on lacquered pin tables to see how they polished, removed marks, and resisted smearing. And these were our top picks. Home & Garden Products Yankee Candle Issues Recall After Multiple Reports of Glass Candles Shattering The Best Silk Pillowcases to Help You Get Your Beauty Sleep Multiple Dry Carpet Cleaner Brands Recalled for Bacteria Contamination Kidde Recalls Millions of Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Alarms Waldorf Astoria Classic Sheet Set Coyuchi 300 Percale Sheet Set Restoration Hardware Hotel Collection – Italian Parallel Border The Ritz Carlton Classic White Sheet Set Westin Hotel Sheet SetLearn how to make your own natural furniture polish and get expert tips and techniques for cleaning wood. Three DIY Furniture Polish Recipes Once these homemade recipes have been mixed, pour them in clean, labeled glass or plastic containers. Recipe #1 1 cup mineral oil 3 drops lemon oil or extract Recipe #2 2 oz. grated beeswax 5 oz. turpentine

Recipe #3 1 cup olive oil 1/4 cup white vinegar The oil nourishes the wood while the vinegar cleans it. Recipes #1 and #2 can be stored in glass or plastic (make sure they’re clean) containers, but #3 should be poured into a spray bottle.best upholstery steam cleaner rental Now that the recipes have been made, now it’s time to see how they work. best leather cleaner for dirty car seatsFollow these expert tips:best leather cleaner for dirty car seats Spray or pour the homemade solution on a soft cloth (never spray directly on the furniture) and work it in, wiping with the grain. canister vacuum cleaner best buy

Right away you will see the luster return to the wood. If the wood looks dry, let it sit and then go over it one more time with the oil and vinegar.air duct cleaning indianapolis in If the wood has detail work, go over the area well with the cloth and solution, then take a soft-bristle brush to work the solution into the grooves. dryer vent cleaning cableBuff with a soft cloth. Now that the furniture is polished and sparkling clean, learn some common problems with wood furniture and ways to solve them: Removing Old, Dull Furniture Polish: Steep two tea bags in boiling water. Let the tea cool to room temperature, take a soft cloth, wring it out in the tea until it’s damp and wash the wood. The tannic acid from the tea is wonderful for maintaining wood. You’ll be surprised at how the wood will shine.

Water and Heat Marks: Apply a little mayonnaise – not salad dressing – onto the spots, spread with a finger, let it soak for a few hours to overnight. Wipe and polish the entire table to restore the shine. Removing Difficult Marks: For even the most difficult marks such as a writing pen, mayonnaise (the all-purpose cleaner) is still the way to go, along with some Rottenstone (a mild pumice). Mix the pumice and mayo, then work the mixture into the spot in the direction of the wood grain. This may take a little time. Reapply as needed, then take a cloth to clean. Restoring Dry- and Old-Looking Wood: First, don’t throw it out. Work some petroleum jelly into the wood with your fingers with a massage action, and if the wood is in really bad shape, leave the jelly on for some time. Finish by working into the grain and buffing with a soft cloth. DIY Quick Cleaning Tips Quality restorations and repairs for over 45 years! Tips From The Restoration Trade This information is based

on first hand knowledge gained by a life time of professional furniture restoration. My goal is to give the reader some simple basic information that will enable you to add many years of life to your fineAlso read through the Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) and (Furniture Care) section of this web site for more detailed WAX, POLISH, OIL: WHICH IS BEST? With all the sprays, polishes, oils, cleaners, and waxes available today, its no wonder that this is the most asked question by far. is always the same; "Do you just want a shine or do you want protection also"? Spray-on polish and oils, "time savers", give a quick temporary shine in just minutes, but that's all you get. they "shine" is because they are WET. "wet look" may produce a nice shine but offers little or no protection. products became popular in the late 1940s and have increased in popularity everTV commercials showing a house wife

using product X on a dull table top, followed by her smiling beautiful face in the reflection gave proof of the effortless shine their product would produce. that was nothing but a good marketing ploy to boost product sales. even today, would not want to save a lot of time and good old fashion elbow grease? What they did not tell you, was that the silicone oils and petroleum distillates in their product would actually cause harm to your finish over time. In the late 60s and early 70s refinishing shops made a lot of money refinishing hundreds of table tops when their finish softened and turned into a sticky, gooey mess. much improved today and can be good for the occasional quickie just before guest arrive, but prolonged use can still leave a gooey mess and still no real protection. It is easy to tell if a customer has been using these kind of polishes. swirl marks in the wet oil with your

fingers, or lift a cloth place mat from the table top to reveal a dull spot the same shape of the mat (the oil was absorbed byBecause the surface is wet, it will actually attract and hold more dust and pollutants from the air. Lets take a moment and consider just what a finish is designed to do. foremost it is to seal the wood. Sealing the wood protects the wood from moisture changes, spills, stains, andSecond it is used to enhance the beauty of the wood grain. you ever heard someone tell how their product "feeds" the wood. furniture is unfinished, or the finish has deteriorated, there is absolutely no way any polish, oil or wax is going to get through the finish to the wood. common misconception is that wood furniture is "alive" and need to "breathe," so don't seal the pores with wax. not "alive" it can not "breathe" nor does it need to be "nourished" or "fed'' withJust the very opposite is

Continual changes in humidity, not the lack of "feeding", cause un-sealed wood to crack, warp, swell, shrink and glue has been used for centuries as a finishing material itself and a finish protector. paste wax will provide a thin, hard,Waxes dry hard so they do not smear and attract dust and dirt. waxing typically lasts 3-5 years, depending on how much the furniture is used and how manyTable tops and chair arms are an exception, generally needing to be waxed once a year, due to the extra antique lovers, prefer the soft sheen provided by paste wax. Also, waxes do not interfere with future refinishing like silicone polishes most often do. It will take 4-6 hours to paste wax a dining room set and if done properly will not need waxing again forIt requires effort, but you won't obtain a more durable, beautiful protectionRemember, the wax protects the finish, the finish protects the wood. To dust or clean, just wipe with a soft

damp, lint free cloth. A typical can of past wax cost less then $15.00 and if the lid is put back on properly after each use will last the average home owner 20 years or so. consider the advertisements that tell you to dust every day with their $3.00 per canAll right, now do the math. One $3.00 can a month for next 20 years ($720.00) verses one can for 20 years atNext consider the time factor. say it takes 5 minutes once a week to use a spray polish on your dinning room set. minutes times 52 weeks times 4 years: that's a little over 17 hours spent giving your set a non-protective shine. it took 5 hours to wax the first time then you spent 1 more hour per year doing the table top and chair arms the next 3 years, that's 8 hours spent giving your set a protective coating that has extended the life of the finish.Make sure you use a wax designed for wood furniture. car waxes can cause problems on some

to reprint the article you just read. it in your ezine, at your website or in your newsletter. requirement is including the following Wax, Polish or Oil? by Steve Nearman, visit: FurnitureRepair.net for more restoration articles. A piece can look good and need refinishing, or look bad, and a touch-up & clear-coat will restore it. beauty of a finish is the secondary concern of a Master Finisher. The purpose of a finish is to protect the wood from moisture changes that can destroy the piece. An easy way to tell is the thumbnail test. scratching the surface finish with your thumbnail where it won't be noticed (a corner or edge will do). If the finish is aged or soft, it will mark or flake offJust as you would not paint over old flaking house paint, a touch-up and clear coat will not work over an old soft, be required to give the wood the protection it needs and return it to its original