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8 Tips for Cleaning Hardwood Floors (Image credit: Adrienne Breaux) Okay, we've tackled the best ways to clean laminate, tile, and carpeted floors, and now it's time for the [my] holy grail of flooring: hardwood. Maybe you have gorgeous hardwood floors that you'd like to pass on to your great-grandchildren, or you want to pay the proper respect to the trees that gave their lives, or perhaps you just want shiny, shiny floors; in any case, read on... Here is some of the best advice from around the web for keeping your hardwoods happy.Martha Stewart's right-hand man Kevin Sharkey refinished his wood floors and wants only the best for them — and for your floors. His crucial first stage of attack is to vacuum every day, or just dust mop "when you don't have time to vacuum". Wax Yearly, Mop Never: Martha herself reminds us that if our floors are waxed, we should never mop them. She recommends wiping up spills right away, but does not mention how she would clean up the everyday grime.

Back in 1995, Martha advised "For wood floors with a polyurethane finish, damp-mop with a combination of one quart water and one-quarter cup vinegar." However, in 2002, she told the New York Times, "And contrary to fairly common advice, you should never use diluted vinegar or ammonia to clean polyurethane. The acid can etch the finish, making it dull." Dust Smart: Better Homes & Gardens recommends frequent dustings with either "a mop that has been treated with a dusting agent" or disposable electrostatic cloths. This should be enough to keep things clean between semi-annual deep cleanings. Damp- Not Wet- Mop: BH&G goes on to describe the correct way to deep clean your hardwood floors, and while it does involve a mop, it barely involves any water at all. When it comes to any mop and cloth involved in the washing and rinsing process, "wring it almost dry so it feels only slightly damp to the touch". Diaper Genie: As for what type of cloth to use, Real Simple suggests that "Cloth diapers work well for buffing, because they’re very soft and absorbent."

Those of us that are baby-free can improvise. Make Yourself A Spot Of Tea: Oh my goodness, you are going to love this one: The DIY Network's solution involves two teabags and boiling water! "The tannic acid in tea creates a beautiful shine for hardwood floors." Dust & Mist: Finally, an Apartment Therapy reader who owns a floor cleaning company sent in thorough pro tips that all make perfect sense to me. I hope I'll be able to put them to use someday, after the Hardwood Floor Fairy pays me a visit!
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Follow our easy steps on how to clean hardwood floors. Transform your floors from dull and grimy to gleaming, gorgeous and clean! mariakraynova / Shutterstock / mariakraynova RELATED: Start scrubbing and dusting! Spring clean with these room-by-room tips Don't use oils, waxes or furniture sprays. Oil leaves a residue, furniture spray creates a slippery surface (think ice-skating rink!) and wax takes time to apply and makes re-coating difficult. RELATED: 23 ways to clean your home (and yourself) using lemons
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Do use a floor-cleaning product recommended by the floor finisher or opt for plain soap and water. If the recommended product is hard to find or costly, and other floor cleaners contain ingredients that violate your floor's warranty, try soap and water. I add a quarter cup of mild or pH-neutral soap (like liquid dishwashing soap) or Murphy Oil Soap (despite the name, it doesn't contain oil) to a bucket of water. Don't rely on water alone or a vinegar and water solution to clean hardwood floors. Mopping with water will result in dingy-looking floors and won't-budge dirt buildup. Vinegar and water is not as effective as soapy water and—some suggest—may dull floors sooner. (Eventual dullness and the need to recoat are inevitable no matter what you use. See Tackling Simple Wood Floor Problems.) In high-traffic areas, like the dining room and kitchen, you should sweep daily, if possible, and mop once or twice a week. Mop less-trafficked areas once a month or once a season.

Mopping technique Remember: Water is wood's worst enemy (even on sealed floors!), so use a damp mop rather than a soaking wet one. Dip the mop into the bucket of prepared cleaning solution, wring it out completely, mop in the direction of the wood grain and repeat. When the water gets dirty, empty the bucket, mix a new batch of cleaning solution and continue mopping. When finished, go back over the entire surface with clean water to rinse. Don't be afraid to get on your hands and knees if necessary. When a floor needs serious attention, I clean it with a cloth. (It's better than a sponge because you can "feel" the dirt as you wipe!) Scuff marks getting you down? A bit of baking soda on a damp sponge will erase them. Noticed a stubborn food, water or grease stain on your surface-sealed floor? Always use a commercial cleaner to treat this problem. Hairline cracks in the floor? Don't panic and attempt to fill them. Dry heat during the winter months causes wood floors to shrink and crack.

Cracks should close up during the summer (though using a humidifier can also help). Sand the floor lightly and recoat with an additional layer or two. Recoating is necessary about every five to seven years. RELATED: How to clean your kitchen sink, showerhead, makeup brushes and more Do use stripper to remove old wax buildup. Choose a product the floor manufacturer recommends, a commercial product from the hardware store or mineral spirits. Do use liquid wax designed for wood floors or paste wax. Liquid wax is easier to apply but leaves a thinner coat (and provides less protection) than paste wax. Don't use acrylic or water-based waxes, furniture waxes or one-step waxes. Acrylic and water-based waxes can turn floors white, furniture wax creates a slick surface and one-step waxes (despite the compelling pitches: They clean! They remove old wax! They lay down new wax!) Do NOT damp-mop waxed floors. Just vacuum and sweep the surface regularly. Once or twice a year, strip the old wax and apply a fresh new coat.

If a high-traffic area gets dull in between treatments, you can spot-wax the area. Vacuum the floor to remove dust. Strip the old wax with stripper (following the manufacturer's instructions) or mineral spirits (rub into wood and then wipe off with a clean, soft cloth). Keep the area well ventilated as you work and as the floor dries. After the floor has dried, apply a thin coat of wax, using an applicator (if you're using liquid wax) or a cloth (if you're using paste wax). Let the wax dry. For added protection, apply a second coat of wax. Use a cloth or, to make the job easier, rent a buffing machine. Remember to always buff in the direction of the wood grain. White water spots marring your floor's finish? Add a small amount of mineral spirits to an extra-fine (0000) steel wool pad and gently rub the area in a circular motion. Keep the area well ventilated as you work. Got heel marks that won't wipe off?Add a small amount of wax to an extra-fine (0000) steel wool pad and gently rub the area in a circular motion.

Food stains causing you trouble? Wipe the surface with a damp cloth, rub dry and wax. When removing any stain (from wood or carpet), always work from the outside edge in toward the center. Secrets to preserving hardwood floors: 3 must-follow rules!To extend the life of your hardwood floor no matter what the finish, keep in mind these three simple rules: Sweep or vacuum often. Ground-in dirt destroys wood floors.To prevent buildup, clean floors once or twice a day in high-traffic areas, like the kitchen and dining room. Cut down on sweeping time by placing a doormat at each entrance to your home. (Some estimates suggest that doormats eliminate 80 percent of the dirt tracked inside!) Wipe up mud and spills immediately. Wood is easily damaged by water.If you aim to protect your wood floor with a rug, be cautious. Rug dyes have been known to stain floors, and plastic backings may affect the wood finish. Ask the carpet store to recommend an underpad as a safeguard. Mary Ellen Pinkham is a contributing writer for iVillage.