Get the surface dirt and stuff gone. A stiff brush is good for getting grit out of your stirrup pads. Cleaning saddles - either you like it or you don't.  I'll also add the answer to the question you are thinking:  YES, you should do it after each and every ride.  Taking care of your tack ensures it will take care of you.  You will keep the leather in top condition, and you can spot repairs that need to be made long before your stirrup leather fails during the lesson with BNT. I always try and follow the manufacturer's directions on saddle cleaning, if you have them.  If you don't, a quick call to the closest tack store or saddle company representative can help you.  A quick internet search will also give you an answer as to how to clean your particular brand of saddle. This is because of the many different types of leather that are out there today, from calf to buffalo and even ostrich.  If you have no idea what to use as far as products go, you likely can't go wrong with a generic glycerin soap.  

Many choices are outlined here! The small sea sponge is great for cleaning tack.duct cleaning truck for sale I like to start cleaning my saddle by just wiping it down with a lightly damp rag to get the dust, sweat, and hair off.  best vacuum cleaner hooverLift all flaps and get under there, too!  best low cost upright vacuum cleanerYou will notice that the seams are often the first place that hair and goop like to collect.  A stiff nylon brush can get into the nooks and crannies to remove horse hairs that want to live there. This works for saddles with tons of texture, you may not want to risk scratches. This is a great time to also check all of the stitching and the overall health of the saddle.  

I once had a girth billet break while I was riding (yikes).  It's dangerous, and embarrassing that I had not noticed the stitching was giving out before I threw my leg over. After the wipe down with a damp towel, proceed with whatever cleaner is suggested.  I use a glycerine/conditioner blend for my saddles that is suggested by the manufacturer.  Applied with a sea sponge, this process takes seconds.  For my very old and very slippery jump saddle, I use more of a conditioning paste to add a little tacky so I don't slide off after I use.  For my textured and specialty leather dressage saddle, I use a super short bristled brush and some paste conditioner to get into every nook and cranny.  This creates that tacky finish and the bristles from the applicator brush get all of the hair and dirt from the seams. You can also make your own saddle cleaner/conditioner in your very own kitchen.  Adding great smelling oils to this concotion (recipe here) is easy, too. This finishing brush is handy for working your favorite saddle cleaner into the hard to reach places!

Some folks like to use oils to soften or darken a new saddle.  This is great on occassion - and please be warned that some saddle flocking can be disrupted and damaged by oils on the underside on the saddle, so use caution or avoid that area all together when oiling. I like to use a toothbrush to get into those areas that my fingers won't - like around the stirrup bars.  You can also wrap a cloth around the non-bristled end to apply oil or conditioner into those hard to reach areas, too. Don't forget to inspect the stirrup leathers where the stirrup rests. What do you use to clean your saddle?Tack and Leather Care Think of your tack as an investment. You've spent time and money in selecting the best quality leather goods for you and your horse. With diligent and correct leather care, including proper tack and leather storage, you can get the maximum return on your investment through its long and safe use. Saddles, Bridles, Martingales, Breastplates and Girths

Just as your skin suffers abrasions and dryness from irritants like sweat and dirt, your leather does too. The key to tack longevity is the practice of daily leather cleaning after every ride. The traditional method of leather care is to wipe dust and sweat from your tack immediately after use with a sponge or cloth that is barely moistened with cool water. Then rub a thin layer of glycerin soap on the leather to seal the pores and keep it soft but not sticky. Newer methods involve convenient and easy-to-use leather cleaning and conditioning products— a wide array of which exists on the market today. You can choose from one-step cleaning and conditioning creams, such as Supple or Horseman's One-Step, or two-step systems with a cleaning solution followed by a conditioning agent that restores moisture, such as those from Belvoir Cleaner and Conditioner and Leather Therapy Wash and Conditioner. Note: Almost every saddle and tack manufacturer has a recommendation or product preference for leather cleaning and conditioning products.

Some tack manufacturers produce their own products. Always follow manufacturer's guidelines when considering commercial leather cleaners and conditioners. Be sure to clean the parts of your tack that are under pressure during use or where sweat or saliva may collect. These areas include the curves near buckles where reins and cheek pieces attach to bit rings, all parts of girths, billet straps and the creases in stirrup leathers where irons rest. The cleaning process is also a good time to check that stitching is tight and intact, and that the leather has not ripped or cracked. For tack that has been neglected over time or that is extremely dirty, use warm water and a soft brush to remove collected grime. You may choose to use a pH-balanced cleaner, such as Lexol Cleaner. Because warm water is extremely drying to leather, immediately follow it with a fine layer of glycerin soap or a leather conditioner, such as Lexol Conditioner. Very dry leather may need to be treated on its underside with a thin coat of warmed Neatsfoot Oil, or fed with a thick saddle food such as Effax Lederbalsam, Passier Lederbalsam or Stubben Hammanol.

Leather tack can be attractive to rodents when food sources are scarce. Try to secure your tack room from these unwanted visitors. Tack is best maintained with daily use and cleaning. However, if your tack has to be stored for an extended time, try to place it in a temperature-controlled environment. Extreme cold and heat are detrimental to leather. Cover stored tack in fabric or newspaper so the leather can breathe rather than in plastic that does not allow air to circulate. Be sure to check your unused equipment occasionally for mildew, and remember to condition it regularly to prevent it from drying out. Bit Care and Cleaning Rinse your bit in water or wipe it thoroughly after every use. Dried food particles on a bit are abrasive to your horse's mouth. Additionally, it is far easier to clean a bit on a regular basis than having to scrub off accumulated grime. Over time, bits may become tarnished from use and storage. Products on the market, such as Herm Sprenger Diamond Paste or Nevr-Dull Wadding Polish, remove layers of tarnish.

Non-toxic, non-acidic and developed for use on mouthpieces and all types of metal, HS Diamond Paste helps prevent tarnish from recurring. (You can also use it on your spurs and metal stirrup irons!) Nevr-Dull is easily used by pulling a wad of the saturated cloth from the tin and rubbing until black can no longer be seen on the cloth. Wash the mouthpiece thoroughly to remove any trace of the product after polishing. Synthetic Saddles, Halters and Horse Boots To clean a synthetic saddle, use Wintec Saddle Cleaner or sponge it with a mixture of gentle soap and warm water. You can soak smaller synthetic articles like nylon halters or neoprene splint boots in a gentle soap and warm water solution to loosen grime. Stuck on dirt can sometimes be removed with a soft brush while the item is still wet. Rinse or hose thoroughly, and allow the items to dry naturally in the sun. For more assistance or to request a catalog call 1-800-989-1500. Or, stop by any of our retail stores to speak with a Dover Saddlery product adviser.