The mobile home furnace provides heat through electric elements or the burning of a fuel such as natural gas or fuel oil. Non-electric units transfer this heat to the home's air via a heat exchanger. The air is circulated over and around the heat exchanger by a blower. The air is then sent into a duct system where it is delivered to the individual rooms.The duct system is different from the system in a traditional residence. Most mobile home duct systems do not include a return air duct system. The air is usually supplied to the blower through slots in the furnace access doors. The filters are usually located in those doors.The mobile home furnace is typically installed directly above the supply duct. A duct connector which is a special piece of metal duct connects the furnace outlet to the supply duct. The typical duct system is made from light gauge steel or aluminum. The duct typically runs the length of the trailer and is usually a single size. This type of system is commonly called a extended plenum system.

Branch ducts are attached to this extended plenum and carry the conditioned air to the individual rooms. Registers in the rooms allow the air to exit the ducts and usually have a damper on them to control the amount of air flow.A doublewide mobile home has two extended plenums. One runs down the length of each half of the home. what is the best way to clean plastic mini blindsThey are usually connected by a flexible duct called a crossover duct.best way to clean truck upholsteryA mobile home furnace uses a special venting system called a roof jack. best cleaner for wooden blindsThis contains the entire intake and exhaust vent system in one package. best vacuum cleaner for restaurant

Air for combustion is pulled in the intake vent which surrounds the exhaust vent pipe. The roof jack is made of metal and is used on all the units that have an efficiency (afue) rating less than 90%.A high efficiency mobile home furnace (90% afue or above) has a second heat exchanger which cools the exhaust from the furnace. This allows the furnace to be vented with pvc pipes. Water is produced when the exhaust is cooled and is referred to as condensate. This water goes through a condensate drain system and is discharged. We will begin by looking at the operation of an older style gas mobile home furnace. The heating cycle begins when the thermostat senses that the room temperature is below the setting on the thermostat. On most systems this thermostat is a simple mechanical snap action switch. When the switch closes, control voltage (24 vac) is supplied to the furnace. This control voltage passes through high temperature limit controls. These limit controls protect the unit from overheating.

There are two of them on the typical unit with one being located in the blower compartment and one in the heating section.If no over heating is present, the control voltage is applied to the gas valve. These older systems used a small flame that was constantly lit to ignite the gas. This is called a standing pilot gas furnace. A device called a thermocouple senses that the pilot is burning and opens a port in the gas valve. When the control voltage is applied to the gas valve, the valve is opened and gas is allowed to flow through the burner. It is lit by the pilot flame. Newer furnaces that have an efficiency of 80% or higher do not have a pilot light. The control voltage from the thermostat is delivered to a furnace control board. The control board provides power to an inducer motor which establishes combustion air flow through the heat exchanger. When the inducer gets up to speed, the pressure switch closes and allows the control voltage to pass through it and the limit controls. The control board then either starts a spark or warms a device called a hot surface ignitor.

This ignitor heats up and glows orange. Then the control provides power to the gas valve and gas flows through the burner. It is then lit by either the spark or the hot surface ignitor. After the control board senses that the gas is burning, the spark generator or ignitor is turned off.After a time delay the blower is energized and air is circulated through the furnace. In older units, a fan control senses the furnace temperature and energizes the blower at a set temperature.When the thermostat senses that the air temperature is above the setpoint, the control voltage to the furnace is turned off. This shuts off the gas. The blower continues to run for a set period of time to cool off the heat exchanger. On older units, the blower runs until the furnace temperature is below a set temperature.Seal in savings with a duct test and repair Leaky ducts can cost you $200 or more a year. Does your home have a room that is too hot in the summer or too cold in the winter? The culprit may be leaky ducts.

In a typical home, about 20% of the air that moves through the duct system is lost because of improper installation.** SRP's Duct Test and Repair rebate helps you identify places in your home where energy escapes. Our rebate program offers up to $250 for qualified testing and repairs. To qualify for the rebate all test and repairs must be completed by BPI-certified contractor. Testing and repair costs For a typical home, testing can range from $100 to $450 and repairs normally cost $300 to $1,500. Houses and equipment can vary; therefore, actual costs may be higher or lower. In the example below, we've calculated an average customer's out-of-pocket costs (including the SRP rebate) for testing and repair services. Example of customer out-of-pocket costs* *Example is based upon rebate that would be received for a single-family home. Your ductwork repairs include Repair any major duct system deficiencies identified; examples include disconnected, crushed, restricted or poorly supported ductwork.

Replace equipment door panel seals as needed or seal equipment panels with UL-181 foil tape. Seal all electrical and refrigerant penetrations through equipment. Mechanically fasten and seal the connection between the air handler and plenums. Mechanically fasten and seal all supply and return plenum seams and end caps. Mechanically fasten and seal the connection between take-off collars and the supply and return plenums. Mechanically fasten and seal the inner liner of all supply and return ducts to take-off collars. Mechanically fasten and seal all duct-to-duct connections, seams, sectioned metal elbows, branch T's, Y's and L's. Mechanically fasten and seal inner liner of all supply and return ducts to supply boots and return boxes. The inner liner may be sealed from inside the living space. Insulate any exposed ductwork and replace any insulation removed or pulled aside. Ensure all supply boots are fastened to framing material with screws or roofing nails.

Seal all gaps between the subfloor, wall or ceiling and the supply boots and return boxes. Seal all seams of each supply boot and each return box. Seal all panned returns and return air chases from lower floor walls to the attic. Seal all equipment platforms in closets or garages. Duct static readings are recorded both before and after any duct repairs.** Rebate program details and requirements Single-family detached homes qualify for up to a $250 rebate. Mobile homes, manufactured homes, apartments, condominiums and townhouses qualify for up to a $200 rebate. Must be a permanent SRP residential electric customer with a central AC system or heat pump. New construction homes and evaporative coolers are ineligible. Duct test and qualified repairs must be completed by a Duct Test & Repair contractor. Test and all repairs must be completed by April 30, 2017. Must allow SRP or our agent to inspect repairs, upon request, to verify compliance with all rebate requirements.

Mail a completed rebate application and a dated copy of the paid invoice to: SRP Duct Test and Repair Rebate Program 2702 N. Third St., Suite 2020 SRP reserves the right to change or cancel this promotion or its terms and conditions at any time. **Contractors may recommend increasing and adding additional return air ducts before sealing ducts. Homeowners who decline a contractor's recommendation to properly size the duct system, prior to duct sealing, may reduce the air conditioning systems cooling capacity and this could cause energy costs to increase. If your air conditioner is at least 10 years old, consider replacing it with a high-efficiency unit. You could save up to 40% on cooling costs.* Save up to $800 on a new AC with SRP's Cool Cash Rebate. *Results may vary based on SEER, size of home, system design and usage. **Results may vary based on actual home's duct leakage, age of home, quality of install and length of duct work. More Ways to Save